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Mysterious Ways, Part 3: Sundown


The following is Part 3 of a 6-part series about my trip to the islands of Ulleung-Do (울릉도) and Dok-Do (독도) from 20(Fri)-22(Sun) August 2010. In this installment, I discuss the evening of day 1, after returning to Ulleung-Do from Dok-Do. Please see related posts (Part 1: Ulleung-Do Awaits; Part 2: Dok-Do Is Our Land--Don't Fuck With It; Part 4: Naribunji; Part 5: Over the Mountain and Through the Fields; Part 6: Why) for additional photos and comments.


By 18:00, when we land back at Ulleung-Do after our 3-hour 20-minute excursion for the 20-minute grand tour of the pier at Dok-Do, it feels later than it is, the sun curiously lower in the sky than it should be. The more astute among us attribute this fact to our being much farther east than Seoul, where the sun doesn't begin to set in late August until at least 7pm. We scramble onto the bus we had chartered for the weekend, imploring the driver to make haste so we can make it to our campsite and set up before nightfall. (Incidentally, we had arranged for a bus to accommodate 21 people, but the travel agency hadn't anticipated that each of us would be lugging a pack equivalent in volume to a 10-year-old child. Thus, we had to arrange for an additional pickup truck to haul our gear.) En route, however, we find ourselves caught in the right place at the right time: passing by one of Ulleung-Do's most prominent photo locations, a small harbor with a view of the "Drinking Elephant," we are mesmerized by the sight of the sun kissing the western horizon. Cameras are all a-flurry. No one is asking to be photographed, and no one is instructing anyone else to pose, but the shots keep coming.

The "Drinking Elephant"

From left: me, Soupy
(these concrete pylons, a small measure against the devastating tidal waves during typhoon season,
are ubiquitous along the entire perimeter of the island)

Me

MtG

Me

Sunkist

Suki

By the time we arrive at our campsite, a small park called Naribunji (나리분지) at the base of the island's central mountain peak, the night is upon is. Everyone dons a head lantern and, within minutes, we establish basecamp with a line of solo tents clustered among the trees. For some of us, this is where the fun begins. Below is merely a photographic sampling of the foods and drink available to us that evening. The photos represent a portion of the offerings within my immediate grasp, and only the more interesting ones. With some preparing more than one dish, I count at least 30 different menu items in total, as well as 10 different types of booze--and that's just on the first night (we still have 4 meals ahead of us). It's difficult to argue with a good and plentiful and diversified spread, but I do wonder if we're overdoing it a bit. Another issue is the seating arrangement. Granted, we're all in it together, and it is a social gathering, but at times I do wish we could have some alone-time with just the people whose company I've come here to enjoy. I'm close to maybe 8 of the 20 and on friendly terms with another 4. Although I welcome the opportunity to meet new members, I don't like feeling the obligation to hang out with them all, all of the time. That aside, we have a good time.

All 21 of us,
each with a table, lamp, burner, cookware,
and enough food and booze for 42

Kara-age (Japanese fried chicken)

Buckwheat crepes with kimchi filling

Lamb skewers (without the skewers)

Spicy rice cakes

Smoked duck

Oak-aged soju

Raw cabbage with drizzle of sesame oil and sea salt
(so simple yet amazingly good)

TO BE CONTINUED...

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