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Showing posts with label car camping. Show all posts
Showing posts with label car camping. Show all posts

Full House, Part 1: Shin-Do Beach


The following is Part 1 of a 2-part series about my trip with friends and family to the island of Shin-Do (신도) in the Yellow Sea, just off the west coast by Incheon, from 16 (Sat) - 17 (Sat) October 2010. In this installment, I review our campsite on the southern beach. Please see a related post (Part 2: Kites and Sand Castles) for additional photos and comments.




Things to Do: on the same beach, literally within a stone's throw of the campsite, is the house featured in the Korean mini-series Full House, starring Rain--5,000 won per person for 2 hrs of access--all day long, tourists came and went, many paying for the access, most appearing to be Japanese, some even taking photos of our set-up; swimming in the ocean, though the beach is more mud than sand; fishing (judging by the occasional fisherman, though I never saw anyone catch anything); cycling around the adjoining islands, connected by bridges--bicycles are available for rent at the dock (some of our team went cycling with our own bikes on day 2, though I remained behind to look after my kid).


Getting There: sammok port (삼목선착장) is located near Incheon, about 80 km from central Seoul; no public transportation available; ferry departs for Shin-Do every hour starting at 08:10, ending at 19:10--20,000 won per car, 1,800 won per person; ferry ride is 20 minutes; from dock, 5 km to beach.


Type of Site: public beach.

Grounds: sand; shade coverage under tress towards rear.

Environment: beach.


Predators: fart bugs and pincher bugs, some mosquitoes.

Capacity: up to 6 families in car camping mode in the prime locations adjacent to the parking lot and within the tree line, though the entire beach could accommodate virtually a limitless number of groups.


Fees: free; no reservations, first-come basis--get there early as possible (after taking the 2nd ferry at 09:10, we arrived at the beach at around 10AM, first ones there, so we had our choice of where to set up, but day trippers started arriving immediately thereafter).

Restrooms: separate mens' and womens' facilities with seated toilets; toilet paper provided; clean.

Showers: outdoor, cold water.

Water: 8-tap sink for general washing and cooking purposes.

Supplies: small store on-site selling snacks, instant foods, beverages; another store located in a resort on the other side of the beach.

Electricity: single outlet in the restroom, but too far from campsite to be of practical use.

Communications: moderate signals for mobile phones and 3G network; no wi-fi signal detected.

Contact Info: none.

Staff: none (though Full House house has staff until 6PM).

TO BE CONTINUED...

Lightning Strikes Twice


The following is an account of my trip to Sanjang Gwangwangji (산장관광지) from 24-25 July 2010.

Lightning struck twice last week, the second resulting from the first. In Korean, when somebody is said to "strike lightning," it means that the person has suddenly proposed an unexpected activity of some sort. First strike: on Tuesday, a couple from my Backcountry Camping (BC) group called to propose dinner and drinks in the city with several other BC members. Ostensibly, the main purpose of the gathering was to thank those of us who had sent (monetary) condolences upon the death of the wife's mother a few weeks earlier. But really it was just another excuse to get drunk together. Over drinks, I mentioned that I was planning a car camping trip with my family that coming weekend and asked for recommendations on where to go. Strike two: someone pitched the idea of foregoing the official BC trip that weekend and joining me; everyone agreed. Thus, I found myself looking forward to another mass car camping trip in as many weeks.

The original plan had been to find a location in the vicinity of the city with convenient amenities and, most important, a waterway of some sort for Dominic to splash around in. But I'd been slow in making reservations, which are required at most of the better places, leaving me to consider sites available first-come-first-serve, an unenviable position on the peak weekend at the peak of the summer vacationing season.

Relying on the group's collective experience, we settled on Sanjang Gwangwangji, a public recreational park located about 55 km from central Seoul. As per my original plan, it had the amenities and a shallow river. Available first-come-first-serve, two couples from the group departed on Friday evening to secure a spot for the rest of us arriving on Saturday. In all, we would be 11 adults and 3 kids.

When I arrived on Saturday afternoon, the initial impression was distressingly lousy. First, although nature had not been a stated criterion in the selection process, my underlying camping philosophy is always that the experience should be somewhat removed from civilization, even if only from the overt signs urbanity. The campgrounds here were directly adjacent to the main road with a full view and within earshot of traffic, surrounded by concrete bridges, buildings and other infrastructure. The site itself, with asphalt parking lots, soccer fields, and rows of bungalows for noncampers, was far too industrialized to even try to pretend we had escaped the grip of the city. Second, the people, oh so many of them. We had anticipated crowds to be sure, and we were aware of the growing popularity of camping, but the teeming masses amidst the chaos of Korean car camping gear was enough to give us pause and wonder if perhaps the time had come to find a new pastime. And third, as a direct result of the second, we were forced to set up in one of the asphalt parking lots mentioned in the first, making the situation "car camping" in a literal sense. One of us couldn't even pitch his tent, a Kovea Alpine 4, a non-freestanding teepee-style model that requires driving pegs into the ground. Not an auspicious beginning to what had been intended as a quiet getaway to the country.


Within minutes, however--minutes, I tell you--my perspective changed completely. It turned out that our location was the best choice we could've made (had we been given a choice). Whereas the designated campgrounds and soccer fields where the majority of campers had set up were mud pit swamps due to recent heavy rainfall and poor drainage, our asphalt surface was clean and dry. We had secured a corner of the lot on the far edge of the grounds that was elevated and overlooked the river, which not only provided unobstructed views of the water and isolated us from the crowds but also gave us the gift of wind. "Beverly Hills," one of us called it. And owing to the lack of surrounding vegetation, we were completely free from the nuisance of bugs. Elevated isolated corner asphalt location: definitely the way to go--not just here but anywhere it's possible.

Another revelation came from the experience of car camping with campers who know what they're doing. In the past, my car camping trips often involved inviting non-camper friends or family, motivated by a four-pronged desire to go camping, to share time with my loved ones, to show off my skills, to persuade them to become campers themselves. But the hassle and expense of buying and preparing all the food and drinks, of packing the tent tarp tables chairs burners grills firewood gas lamps coolers silverware plates cups utensils cutting board paper towels mats sleeping bags mosquito repellent laundry line dishwashing detergent sponge and even the goddamn kitchen sink and getting it into the car and setting it up and disassembling it and reloading it into the car and then unpacking it, of cooking and cleaning and serving everyone, of attempting to ensure that everyone's "needs" are met, like boiling a tub of water so that a friend could bathe in warm water--it just wasn't worth it anymore. So I'd recently decided to give up car camping altogether, except with my family or when merited by a special occasion. But on this trip, with each member of the group contributing food and drinks and setting up their own gear and sharing in the cooking and cleanup and taking care of their own minimal needs, the situation was immediately comfortable and worry-free. The car camping policy has been revised to allow for trips with other bonafide campers.

In the end, in addition to the convenience, camping with campers is fun. We all know why we're there, why we're not. We know what to expect, what to appreciate, what not to expect, what to deplore. We learn from each other, teach each other. We share.

Sanjang Gwangwangji



The following is a review of the campsite Sanjang Gwangwangji (산장관광지). Please see related posts (The Lightning Overnighter) for additional thoughts and information.

Things to Do: small river within 2-min walk, deep enough for swimming in places but mostly shallow for wading and splashing; fishing (in theory, although there was no evidence of anything worth catching); soccer fields (overrun at the time with tents and cars).

Location: Gyeongsgi-Do, Gapyeong-Gun, Sang-Myeon, Deokhyeon-Ri 21 (경기도 가평군 상면 덕현리 21번지), 55 km northeast of central Seoul.

Getting There (from Hannam-Dong,Seoul): by car, shortest route is 55 km, about 40 km on highway; 1.5 hours of drive time; both distance and time may vary depending on route (various highway combinations possible) and traffic (departing Seoul on Friday evening or returning on Sunday afternoon may result in as much as additional hour each way); easy road access to campsite (no need for 4-wheel drive or SUV).

Type of Site: public recreational park.

Grounds: soft dirt with sparse grass growth in designated camping areas; camping permitted on asphalt parking lots; some shade in small park.

Environment: semi-rural but surrounded by signs of civilization (e.g., bridges, buildings); adjacent to main road; access to various towns/villages within 5-km radius.

Predators: surprisingly--happily--nothing (slept without a mosquito net and, perhaps for the first time ever, came home with only a single mysterious mosquito bite on my ass).

Capacity: main campsite is relatively small, enough for about 20 family-sized tent+tarp setups; overflow for another 80 or so setups can be accommodated in various additional locations, including small park (in fact, this is the best place to set up, in terms of tranquility and centrality, and it even has decks and picnic tables in places, but it can accommodate only 8 or so setups at most, and small ones at that (e.g., 3-person tents, mini-tarps), parking lots (this is where we were forced to go, setting up on the asphalt, regretfully at first, but we were ultimately quite happy with the arrangement, being away from the crowds on an elevated perch overlooking the park), along the riverbank (may seem like a good idea, but the grounds are too rocky and uneven for a proper setup), and soccer fields; modern bungalows/pensions are also available for rent onsite.

Fees: KRW 2,000 per person per night, plus KRW 5,000 per car per night (didn't get around to asking about the cost for renting bungalows/pensions).

Restrooms: several separate mens' and womens' facilities with sit-down toilets; toilet paper provided; clean but not immaculate.

Showers: none.

Water: 6-tap sink for general washing and cooking purposes; inadequate for size of campgrounds (lines form after mealtimes); lack of waste bins in immediate area results in food scraps being dumped into drain and blockage; water, drawn from local well, is potable; cold water only.

Supplies: adequately stocked store sells packaged food, cold drinks, ice, gas canisters, clothing
.

Electricity: sporadic outlets require reel extension cords; no extra charge for use.

Communications: strong signals for mobile phones and 3G network; no wi-fi signal detected.

Staff: on site 24 hours; English proficiency unknown.

Contact Information: none.

While I wouldn't recommend this place as a campsite per se, I wouldn't object to a return trip. It's relatively close to home, offers the comforts of civilization (e.g., electricity and store), and the small river provides a few hours of fun (especially for kids) and a welcome escape from the heat. As a consequence of these positive attributes, of course, swarms of vacationers descend upon the site during the peak season and render the camping experience somewhat uncomfortable due to the crowding conditions. Still, if a group of close friends were to propose a night of BBQ and drinks there (which is pretty much how this trip came about), I'm in.

Sausages and Flies

In a twist on the old saying about not wanting to see how sausages and laws are made--i.e., just appreciate the finished product--the process of making sausages by hand at Daegaya Meat Camp was mildly entertaining, but the resulting batch of sausages was, to put it mildly, rather unpleasant.

The following is an account of my experience at Daegaya Meat Camp from 17 (Saturday) to 18 (Sunday) July 2010. Please see additional related posts (It's Actually Called "Meat Camp," Daegaya Meat Camp, Getting to Daegaya Meat Camp) for additional thoughts and information.

The weekend was a reunion of sorts, attended by 15 friends and family with whom I'd gone camping on several occasions in the past but hadn't seen in the field for over a year. (My wife ditched at the last minute, opting to stay at home with Dominic--a wise choice in retrospect.) Expectations were high, owing more to the scale of the event than the prospect of making our own meat. Some of us were so excited that half the group arrived on Friday night only to discover that the torrential monsoon rains had flooded the site in ankle-deep water. Fortunately, the camp is on the grounds of a defunct school with the classrooms of the original building available for lodging. So, the reward for their enthusiasm was a night of indoor camping, unable to light a barbeque and forced to sleep in musty prepitched tents like refugees. As I lay down to sleep the following night, however, after the flood waters had subsided to allow us to set up our own tents outdoors, the stifling heat and the swarming bugs made the electric fans and screen doors within seem like a really good idea.

The heat was one thing. When I arrived on Saturday afternoon, with the grounds soaked from the rains, evaporation from the midday sun created a sauna in the midst of a swamp. We discovered later that living was bearable, even somewhat pleasant with the occasional breeze, in the shade under an enormous tree on the side of the campsite. Why we didn't set up there in the first place is beyond me (maybe for easier access to electricity near the school building).

Another thing was the bugs. Flies. Flies. Flies. Of biblical proportions. None of us had ever seen anything like it. Our main tarp, a white Coleman Weathermaster, had been rendered black with the flies that had attached themselves to the inner surface. Along our chairs, on the tables. Even after we'd disposed of our trash and stowed the food in the coolers, they were everywhere. Goosebumps just thinking about it. Coincidentally, and I'm not making this up to provide literary irony here, the newspaper I'd brought to read that day featured an article about the troubled life of William Golding, the author of Lord of the Flies. I now regret not taking photos of it but, at the time, the notion of recording the torture for posterity didn't register. The evening shift, after the flies had gone home for the day, was taken over by the mosquitos. Not as bad, either in number or aggressiveness, as I've encountered elsewhere but enough that I awoke the next morning with over a dozen bites on my legs. This despite the fact that the tent had been sealed (admittedly, the living-room-style tent, a Kovea Castle, doesn't have an attached floor to provide a complete seal), we'd fumigated the interior with a full can of bug spray, and I'd hung a mosquito net for myself from the tent roof (I suspect that my legs had poked out during the night). Apparently, the owner had sprayed some sort of repellent in the ground, but it had been washed away by the rain.

The heat and bugs would've been forgivable had the main purpose of our trip, the sausages, turned out okay. However, as I alluded to above, the making part was interesting, if only for the novelty of it, but the eating part left much to be desired. The photos below show the procedure, step by step.


(1) An array of spices and condiments, but the recipes didn't make proper use of the ingredients.


(2) In an air-conditioned kitchen facility, a renovated classroom in the school building, the tutorial begins with a 30-minute lecture on the history and "science" behind sausage-making. At this point, given the instructor's seemingly vast store of knowledge and overly finite attention to detail, we assume that we're getting our money's worth.


(3) 1.5 kg of pork shoulder, about 20% fat content. On one hand, the use of pure fresh meat is appealing in contrast to the left-over and otherwise unusable bits and pieces of pig that are usually used to make sausages. On the other hand, those bits and pieces are largely what makes sausages so tasty--and why we usually don't want to know what goes in them.


(4) For the first batch, the meat grinder was set on fine, resulting in a near paste. When I wondered aloud whether this would remove a significant amount of bite in the sausage, the instructor changed the setting for the second batch. Nevertheless, in the end, the texture of both batches was unsavory, crumbly, like sawdust. In addition to technique, the type of meat, as noted above, may also have been a factor.


(5) The instructor claimed, based on more appeals to "science," that a mixer is necessary to create a proper binding effect. Maybe he was right. I don't want to imagine how much worse the sausages would've been like without the mixer. The flavoring ingredients are added at this stage.


(6) The casings are made of artificially produced collagen. Part of me was disappointed that we weren't using natural intestines, but everything about the experience was designed to eliminate the more unseemly aspects of sausage-making.


(7) With the meat scooped into a press machine, and the casing tied off on one end and attached on the other end to a nozzle at the base of the machine, one person turns a crank while another guides the meat into the casing and twists the growing tube at intervals to make links.


(8) Finally, we have two finished batches of sausages: the pink batch on the left being "English bangers" and the reddish batch being "Spanish chorizo." That's what the instructor called them.

Talk about lipstick on a pig. Not only did they fail to resemble bangers or chorizo, they failed to resemble any kind of sausage per se. Authenticity aside, they just tasted lousy. After we'd cooked them on indirect heating on a Weber grill to a perfect internal temperature of 68 degrees centigrade, as per instructions, the consensus was unanimous upon tasting. Some members of the group, unaware of what bangers or chorizo are supposed to taste like, and perhaps not wanting to appear dismissive or ignorant, commented cautiously that the sausages weren't quite what they'd been expecting. Others noted that the flavor was unlike anything they'd experienced. After a few minutes of this, I simply declared the situation a disaster. Everyone seemed relieved that their instincts were confirmed correct.

Despite all the negativity evident in this review, I wouldn't say the entire experience was a complete waste. If only for the novelty of getting make sausages by hand, an additional story to tell, Daegaya Meat Camp is worth visiting once. For anyone planning on going, I'd recommend avoiding the hot and rainy season, packing copious amounts of bug spray, sleeping in a hermetically sealed tent, and preparing a proper sausage recipe in advance.

Daegaya Meat Camp



The following is a review of the campsite Daegaya Meat Camp (대가야 미트캠프). Please see related posts (It's Actually Called "Meat Camp," Sausages and Flies, Getting to Daegaya Meat Camp) for additional thoughts and information.

Things to Do: apropos of campsite's name, main attraction is meat production; (in our case) hands-on 1-hr sausage-making tutorial in air-conditioned on-site kitchen facility (didn't have time to ask if lessons for other types of meat--e.g., bacon, hams--are also or would eventually be offered); KRW 20,000 covers session for 1 "team" (4 campers) and provides 1.5 kg of sausages (photo right shows about 1 kg); sausages may be cooked and consumed immediately after class.


Location: Gyeongsang-Bukdo, Goryeong-Gun, Unsu-Myeon, Hwaam-Ri 1163 (경상북도 고령군 운수면 화암리 1163번지), 45 km southwest of central Daegu.

Getting There (from Hannam-Dong, Seoul): by car, shortest route is 285 km, mostly highway; 3.5 hours of drive time; both distance and time may vary depending on route (various highway combinations possible) and traffic (departing Seoul on Friday evening or returning on Sunday afternoon may result in as much as additional three hours each way); easy road access to campsite (no need for 4-wheel drive or SUV); public transportation likely to be extremely cost-prohibitive and inconvenient: after taking bus/train to Daegu, taxi fare one way to campsite may be as high as KRW 100,000 (drivers would likely charge double meter to cover return trip), while return trip would require hiring local "call" taxi for similar rate (owner could probably assist with this).

Type of Site: commercial, on grounds of defunct elementary school; privately owned.

Grounds: soft dirt with sparse grass growth; lack of shade, except under one gigantic tree (see top photo); heavy rainfall during monsoon season may result in flooding of grounds due to poor drainage (see top photo) (in fact, on this trip, half of our team arrived one day before the rest only to discover that the rains had led to ankle-level flooding, forcing them to sleep in the school building; the waters had mostly subsided by the next day, when the other half arrived, but the grounds were somewhat squishy-muddy-swampy in the aftermath; even worse, the daytime heat caused the moisture to evaporate and create a sauna effect).

Environment: countryside, surrounded by farmlands and small hills; quiet and isolated from overt signs of civilization despite short 500-m distance to entrance at main road (see photo above); though relatively peaceful, not much of wilderness/nature vibe; nearest town/village located 3 km away.

Predators: FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES FLIES (never in all my experiences have I, nor in my twistedest imagination could I have, encountered so many), and swarms of mosquitos for good measure.

Capacity: can comfortably accommodate at least 60 family-sized tent+tarp setups, plus additional space inside large auditorium with site-owned tents already pitched (see photo right) and two smaller empty classrooms.

Fees: KRW 15,000 for 1st night per setup (includes 1 family-sized tent + 1 tarp + maximum 4 campers); KRW 12,000 each additional night; classrooms inside school building, either main hall with pre-pitched tents for KRW 20,000 per night or individual rooms for KRW 50,000 per night, are available for rental; limited number and varying qualities of grills, tables, chairs, tents, tarps, and other basic gear also available for rental (usually for a fee, which I also forgot to ask about, but the owner allowed us to sleep in the tents in the classrooms due to the aforementioned flooding, and later to borrow a grill and a tarp, free of charge).

Restrooms: separate mens' and womens' facilities with sit-down toilets; toilet paper provided; clean but not immaculate.

Showers: separate mens' and womens' facilities with sinks and shower stalls; soap and shampoo provided; cold water only.

Water: 10-tap sink for general washing and cooking purposes; water, drawn from local well, is potable (but sporadically had a slight off color, probably due to heavy rainfall); cold water only.

Supplies: school building contains "exhibition ro
om" that sells various barbeque-related items (e.g., grills, cast-iron pans, charcoal); owner sells fresh basil and other potted herbs, as well as sausages; closest mini-mart located about 2 km from the campsite.

Electricity: several outlets directly adjacent to the school building; no extra charge for use.

Communications: strong signals for mobile phones and 3G network; wi-fi signal detected but required passcode (possibly available upon request); school building has telephone and internet landlines (possibly available upon request).

Staff: owner and assistants on site 24ove hours; English proficiency unknown (though owner liked to use a lot of English phrases, like "No problem!").

Contact Information: (051) 956-5279; (see link Daegaya Meat Camp; all in Korean, but click on bulleted headings in top-center of page (see photo above) and scroll down to see photos).

Bonus: "swimming" pool, about 1-m deep (installed for young kids in minds but actually quite a welcome benefit for kids of all ages when the heat gets unbearable); water sourced from local well (off-color at times, probably due to heavy rainfall, but cleared up after a couple hours of filtration).

The novelty of the sausage-making experience makes this campsite worthwhile for a single visit. However, the fact that the resulting sausages are neither authentic nor tasty, nor very cheap, rules out repeat visits--better to learn the basic technique, which is simple enough to replicate at home with the requisite equipment, though overly simplified at the camp to make real sausages, and experiment solo. Another drawback is the lack of alternative activities within the area. And if ever you do decide to go, even if only once, just for the hell of it, avoid late July both for the rains and the flies and mosquitos.