Full House, Part 1: Shin-Do Beach

The following is Part 1 of a 2-part series about my trip with friends and family to the island of Shin-Do (신도) in the Yellow Sea, just off the west coast by Incheon, from 16 (Sat) - 17 (Sat) October 2010. In this installment, I review our campsite on the southern beach. Please see a related post (Part 2: Kites and Sand Castles) for additional photos and comments.

Things to Do: on the same beach, literally within a stone's throw of the campsite, is the house featured in the Korean mini-series Full House, starring Rain--5,000 won per person for 2 hrs of access--all day long, tourists came and went, many paying for the access, most appearing to be Japanese, some even taking photos of our set-up; swimming in the ocean, though the beach is more mud than sand; fishing (judging by the occasional fisherman, though I never saw anyone catch anything); cycling around the adjoining islands, connected by bridges--bicycles are available for rent at the dock (some of our team went cycling with our own bikes on day 2, though I remained behind to look after my kid).

Getting There: sammok port (삼목선착장) is located near Incheon, about 80 km from central Seoul; no public transportation available; ferry departs for Shin-Do every hour starting at 08:10, ending at 19:10--20,000 won per car, 1,800 won per person; ferry ride is 20 minutes; from dock, 5 km to beach.

Type of Site: public beach.

Grounds: sand; shade coverage under tress towards rear.

Environment: beach.

Predators: fart bugs and pincher bugs, some mosquitoes.

Capacity: up to 6 families in car camping mode in the prime locations adjacent to the parking lot and within the tree line, though the entire beach could accommodate virtually a limitless number of groups.

Fees: free; no reservations, first-come basis--get there early as possible (after taking the 2nd ferry at 09:10, we arrived at the beach at around 10AM, first ones there, so we had our choice of where to set up, but day trippers started arriving immediately thereafter).

Restrooms: separate mens' and womens' facilities with seated toilets; toilet paper provided; clean.

Showers: outdoor, cold water.

Water: 8-tap sink for general washing and cooking purposes.

Supplies: small store on-site selling snacks, instant foods, beverages; another store located in a resort on the other side of the beach.

Electricity: single outlet in the restroom, but too far from campsite to be of practical use.

Communications: moderate signals for mobile phones and 3G network; no wi-fi signal detected.

Contact Info: none.

Staff: none (though Full House house has staff until 6PM).

TO BE CONTINUED...

Mysterious Ways, Part 6: Why

The following is Part 6 of a 6-part series about my trip to the islands of Ulleung-Do (울릉도) and Dok-Do (독도) from 20(Fri)-22(Sun) August 2010. In this installment, I discuss day 3. Please see related posts (Part 1: Ulleung-Do Awaits; Part 2: Dok-Do Is Our Land--Don't Fuck With It; Part 3: Sundown; Part 4: Naribunji; Part 5: Over the Mountain and Through the Fields) for additional photos and comments.

After breakfast, we pack up our gear and head to the dock in our bus. With the sun shining brightly overhead, the bus driver deliberately takes the long way around, along the ocean, to give us an opportunity to see the island from a coastal perspective, which we had missed on our arrival at sunset two days earlier. Thank you.

Saving the best for last, our final activity is the highlight of the trip: a short trek along the island's southeastern coast, a route that some regard as Korea's most beautiful. The bus takes us to the starting point. In two hours, we will end up at the dock.

The entrance,

an unassuming concrete hole in the wall adjacent to an abandoned parking lot,

gives zero indication of the magnificence that lies ahead.

A series of arching bridges, each a color of the rainbow.

More stairs.

A bird's eye view of the bridges from the top of the stairs.

A bamboo forest leading down to the other side of the cliff.

At the end of the bamboo forest,

we encounter a seafood shack that also serves patbingsu (팥빙수),

sweet red beans over shaved ice.

A restaurant of sorts, cut directly into the cliffside.

We order Cokes.

After an 8-hr journey back to Seoul, we arrive at Lotte World sometime past 10PM. Naturally, we can't bear to part company just yet, having only spent the past 68 hours in close proximity. So, as per tradition, we go in search of the Last Supper, which turns out to be jokbal (족발) (roasted ham hocks), bossam (보쌈) (boiled and sliced pork bellies), and hongeo hoe (홍어회)(fermented skate wing). Ultimately, this is why we come together--the together part--not so much the pigs feet or rotten fish.

THE END

Mysterious Ways, Part 5: Over the Mountain and Through the Fields

The following is Part 5 of a 6-part series about my trip to the islands of Ulleung-Do (울릉도) and Dok-Do (독도) from 20(Fri)-22(Sun) August 2010. In this installment, I discuss our hiking activities on day 2. Please see related posts (Part 1: Ulleung-Do Awaits; Part 2: Dok-Do Is Our Land--Don't Fuck With It; Part 3: Sundown; Part 4: Naribunji; Part 6: Why) for additional photos and comments.

About 20 minutes from our campsite at Naribunji (나리분지) lies the base of Seong-In-Bong (성인봉), the central peak of the island, our first target of the trip. I was told that it wouldn't be an arduous hike. Not that it mattered, I would've gone anyway, but that's what they told me. Suspiciously, those of us who'd been there before decline to join us, opting instead to lounge around a fountain area at the entrance to the trail. After a couple kilometers of unchallenging though picturesque terrain, we suddenly hit stairs. The sign reads: "1.97 km to peak." Yes, I'm told, that means 1.97 km of stairs. At this point, I have no idea what 1.97 km of stairs will entail, how many stories in a typical building it would be equivalent to, how long it will take, whether I'm even up for the task. But it can't be that bad, I'm thinking. I was wrong. It was bad. After 15 minutes, I'm already losing it. My thighs are burning, but not in the good way. My smoker's lungs are burning, never a good thing. Another sign: "1.83 km to peak." Holy crap.

About 2/3 of the way up, we hit a lookout point with a fantastic view of the island. More interestingly, a cat is hanging out there. Judging by its friendliness and cleanliness, we surmise that it is or was a house cat. We can't imagine how it got there.

When I finally reach the summit, in last place, after about 2 hours, to the sarcastic applause of the group, I discover why the others who've stayed behind had probably determined that this one just isn't worth the effort. The main problem is that the summit is surrounded 360 degrees by foliage, which prevents a proper view of the island below. At best, the ocean in the far distance is visible. Another thing, and this is more a matter of timing than an inherent problem, I can't stand to remain on the summit for longer than a minute, even if it did offer something to see, due to the scorching sun. Having embarked sometime after breakfast, we arrive at noon, when the sun is at its highest, bearing directly down upon the mountain. As the trail was under the constant shade of trees, we don't realize how hot it is that day, about 34 degrees centigrade, pretty much the hottest it ever gets on the island, until we break out of the tree cover into the sunlight. And without a hint of clouds or smog, the sunlight is piercing. We take a few quick photos and head back into the shade.

After rejoining the rest of the group, we head out for some off-road trekking through the island's interior. Someone remarks that it feels like Jurassic Park.

TO BE CONTINUED...