Mysterious Ways, Part 5: Over the Mountain and Through the Fields

The following is Part 5 of a 6-part series about my trip to the islands of Ulleung-Do (울릉도) and Dok-Do (독도) from 20(Fri)-22(Sun) August 2010. In this installment, I discuss our hiking activities on day 2. Please see related posts (Part 1: Ulleung-Do Awaits; Part 2: Dok-Do Is Our Land--Don't Fuck With It; Part 3: Sundown; Part 4: Naribunji; Part 6: Why) for additional photos and comments.

About 20 minutes from our campsite at Naribunji (나리분지) lies the base of Seong-In-Bong (성인봉), the central peak of the island, our first target of the trip. I was told that it wouldn't be an arduous hike. Not that it mattered, I would've gone anyway, but that's what they told me. Suspiciously, those of us who'd been there before decline to join us, opting instead to lounge around a fountain area at the entrance to the trail. After a couple kilometers of unchallenging though picturesque terrain, we suddenly hit stairs. The sign reads: "1.97 km to peak." Yes, I'm told, that means 1.97 km of stairs. At this point, I have no idea what 1.97 km of stairs will entail, how many stories in a typical building it would be equivalent to, how long it will take, whether I'm even up for the task. But it can't be that bad, I'm thinking. I was wrong. It was bad. After 15 minutes, I'm already losing it. My thighs are burning, but not in the good way. My smoker's lungs are burning, never a good thing. Another sign: "1.83 km to peak." Holy crap.

About 2/3 of the way up, we hit a lookout point with a fantastic view of the island. More interestingly, a cat is hanging out there. Judging by its friendliness and cleanliness, we surmise that it is or was a house cat. We can't imagine how it got there.

When I finally reach the summit, in last place, after about 2 hours, to the sarcastic applause of the group, I discover why the others who've stayed behind had probably determined that this one just isn't worth the effort. The main problem is that the summit is surrounded 360 degrees by foliage, which prevents a proper view of the island below. At best, the ocean in the far distance is visible. Another thing, and this is more a matter of timing than an inherent problem, I can't stand to remain on the summit for longer than a minute, even if it did offer something to see, due to the scorching sun. Having embarked sometime after breakfast, we arrive at noon, when the sun is at its highest, bearing directly down upon the mountain. As the trail was under the constant shade of trees, we don't realize how hot it is that day, about 34 degrees centigrade, pretty much the hottest it ever gets on the island, until we break out of the tree cover into the sunlight. And without a hint of clouds or smog, the sunlight is piercing. We take a few quick photos and head back into the shade.

After rejoining the rest of the group, we head out for some off-road trekking through the island's interior. Someone remarks that it feels like Jurassic Park.

TO BE CONTINUED...