Black Ops, Part 2: Mt. Seorak National Park

The following is Part 2 of a 2-part series about my trip with Backcountry Camping to the Inje (인제) region near Mt. Seorak (설악산) from 22(Fri)-23(Sat) October 2010. In this installment, I discuss our trek through the Mt. Seorak National Park on day 2. Please see related post (Part 1: Yongdae Recreational Forest) for additional photos and comments.

Clockwise from bottom right:

parboiled octopus, red chili paste (dipping sauce for octopus),

marinated perilla leaves and radish sprout kimchi, galbi tang (갈비탕) (beef rib soup),

fried eggs, marinated bean sprouts.

Following breakfast, we set out for Mt. Seorak National Park, a 5-km drive from base camp. In the announcement for this trip on the Backcountry Camping website, the description of the planned activities was cryptically vague, noting only that we would be trekking, the destination to be revealed upon arrival. That morning, daypacks all ready to go, our leader explains that Mt. Seorak National Park is off-limits to the public. If caught, though he notes that the chances of this are highly unlikely, as the park doesn't have patrolling authorities, each person faces a fine of 500,000 won. Despite the risk, nobody backs out.

Still legit, crossing a stream on the way to the park entrance.

Still legit, just prior to the entrance,

an obstacle course built by the Korean military for training purposes;

this will come back into play later (see below).

A sign at the park entrance warning would-be explorers about the penalty for venturing in;

we've just crossed the line into illegality.

The first hour is unremarkable. Although our primary objective, and reason for breaking the law, is to view the autumn foliage in its untouched glory, we find that much of the leaves have yet to turn and those that have are already fallen to the ground, rendering the trees bare and the scenery somewhat bleak.

Like something out of a children's fairy tale, or maybe a horror movie, we encounter a mysterious house in the middle of the woods. Crossing a small bridge, we explore. Although no one is around at the moment, the house shows obvious signs of residence. We wonder, first, how the inhabitants are allowed to live in an otherwise restricted area, though we suspect that they sustain themselves by collecting and selling wild herbs and medicinal plants. Second, we are amazed that they manage to lug packaged foods (e.g., ramyun), beverages (e.g., canned beer), and other sundries (e.g., shampoo) through the forest, up the hills, and across the streams.

A few kilometers later, we discover yet another habitation, an actual log cabin in a clearing, surrounded by mountains. With the midday sun shining brightly overhead, the skies richly blue, the foliage on the trees in the distant mountains is much more impressive. We settle here for lunch. During our preparations, an old man appears out of nowhere, the owner of the cabin. Adding to the improbability of the situation, he's carrying a long tree branch for a cane and burlap sack slung over his shoulder. He has a beard. I'm surprised that he's wearing shoes, this storybook old man of the hills. At first, he's a bit put off by our invasion, but soon enough he warms up to us as we offer him food and drink. After lunch, we sprawl out for quick nap, some of us. Before we leave, the old man gives us wild mushrooms and berries. We get his cell phone number, believe it or not, and promise to return someday. And we lived happily ever after.

The cabin is equipped with solar power,

the panels (barely) visible in far right of frame.

Old man of the hills, far left.

Salad in Italian Dressing

with Crispy Chicken and Grilled Pork.

The cabin's interior.

After our return to civilization, our group's leader proposes that we engage in a competition involving the obstacle course at the park entrance, the losers to buy sashimi for dinner. Nobody is particularly thrilled by the idea, but we go through with it anyway. As I would be leaving early that evening, returning to Seoul for personal reasons, I am taken out of the picture, ordered instead to document the high jinx for posterity. I would later make a short film of the event, which is available on YouTube at the following link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lW87BqPrrM0. Enjoy.

THE END